Talking Turkey

What comes to your mind when you think of Turkey? Thanksgiving? The Middle East? The Hagia Sofia? The place where President Barack Obama made a speech? With the exception of Thanksgiving, Turkey is all of those and more.

The History
The modern day republic of Turkey was formed on Oct. 29, 1923 out of what was left of the Ottoman Empire by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Turkey rests easily in Europe, and Asia as well as in the Middle East. Under Atatürk’s rule, Turkey saw a bevy of reforms, starting with abolishing the sultanate and separating religion from the state. That meant an end to Sheriat Law and traditional religious schools and the opening of secular schools and Western Laws. For Atatürk modernization meant westernization and his reforms reflected this, he even adopted surnames and switched from the Arabic characters to a Latin-based alphabet.
Nowadays, Turkey is a hot tourist destination.

The Food
Breakfast
Most hotels serve a standard Turkish breakfast buffet with fresh baked bread, olives, tomatoes, sheep’s milk cheese, boiled eggs, yogurt, cold meat and a smorgasbord of jams, preserves and honey.  It was a bit limited, but was always fresh and filling.
Lunch
Lunch is light and can largely be taken on the road. There is the Döner Kebap, made by roasting free-range Turkish lamb vertically over a charcoal grill. It can be found on many corners; the best kind is singed on the outside, soft and succulent on the inside and served with tomato sauce and brown butter. A similar variety is the Shashlik with chunks of lamb, tomato, onions and peppers on a skewer.
Being a vegetarian I mainly stuck to the mezes (Turkish appetizers). Normally a dinner would consist of cucumber, tomato and yogurt salads, cheeses, grape leaves, and hummus. I absolutely enjoyed the gözleme Turkish flat bread folded over spinach, feta cheese and tomatoes (it was like a Turish version of a crêpe).  Börek was another favorite (and stomach saver) it is a pastry filled with cheese and vegetables.
Dinner
Being so close to the sea, seafood seems an obvious choice for dinner. And many of the local people must agree because they are always perched on the harbors, piers, any ledge that makes it possible to catch fish. My dinner companions ordered fish for the main course. Appetizers were fried calamari and salad. Some of them made faces when the main course came out as a whole, cooked fish –  with head and tail still attached –  but after they began to dig in until all that was left was skin, bone and fin.

The Drinks
Tea, Turkish coffee, or Nescafé is served with every meal. The Turkish coffee (after sweetened) is simply delicious. Served in a tiny, espresso-like cup the coffee is freshly ground then brewed and has a thick ,rich texture that goes down smooth. Nescafe is the less strong, less in your face instant coffee alternative. The tea is more popular than the Turkish coffee and is often served while you shop. Tea comes in many flavors with apple and pomegranate being two of the most flavorful.

Taksim/Beyoğlu
Taksim is major. Upon exiting the subway you are right at the Independence Monument and from there the main street, Istiklal is footsteps away.
By day, Istiklal (Independence in Turkish) is a massive and perpetually crowded pedestrian street with shops peddling “genuine fake” accessories, authentic art, ceramics, books, sweets, food of all sort, big name clothing stores and anything else you could ask for.
Every 15 minutes trolleys ride up and down the busy street with little kids hanging off the back. The streets are simply filled. The people aren’t pushy and thanks to the glorious weather not so sticky and hot you wish everyone would disappear. Quite the contrary, the people were half of the excitement. They created a happy buzz that zipped throughout the entire square. Some people shop, some eat at the cafés tucked off in the small alley streets and others are simply passing through, perhaps on their way home.
By night all of the first level shops close the rooftops open and the party begins. The crowds don’t wane; they merely change clothes to go out to party. There are countless rooftop and basement clubs throbbing — some with live bands, others have DJs spinning club hits. There is a place for every person, and if the club isn’t your scene, there are always the outdoor cafés and restaurants for your leisure. 
During my stay the football (soccer) finals were taking place and Beikta, one of Turkey’s most popular team’s, won the championship. People were hanging out of windows brandishing the winning teams flag, yelling and chanting with one another and dancing in the middle of the street.

The People
Perhaps it’s the water or the good feelings influenced by all the good food but you are enveloped in constant sense of calm, as if deep down you know everything is OK. The same applies to many of the people who live there. Even if they are out hustling “Lacoste” shirts and cologne the people are proud and friendly. The kids were too adorable! They had no problem coming up to you, to talk to you, find out where you are from and occasionally to take a picture with you or sell you something.
A trip to Turkey can be whatever you make of it. You can stick strictly to academic/historical pursuits, stick to the beaches and partying, or do what I did and do everything! Whatever you choose be sure to pack your English-Turkish Language companion and an open mind.